by Steve France

Indoor climbing walls have long provided both amusement and bemusement to climbers and spectators alike. The Castle climbing creation is no different in that respect but, due to its unique location in the clubroom, its frequency of use tends to reflect certain phases of interest within the Club. An increase in the wall’s popularity usually occurs at times when there is an influx of new members or novices, or when there is a strong climbing contingency.

The climbing wall’s construction and development in the early seventies paved the way for the sudden burst of interest it received between 1978 and 1981. This was chiefly due to the production of the first ever guide book to the outcrop and a large enthusiastic group of climbing members. Competition within the Club reached a peak in 1980 and this is reflected by the new routes section in the back of the guide book, a good example being the route called The Merry Monk . This hotly denounced route was climbed by Tom Benson with the use of a hold that was allegedly out of bounds half an inch to the right! . It was quickly climbed without the use of the offending hold by Steve France who renamed it Short Black Curly Hair but the arguments did not end there due to mounting ethical disagreements. Both Tom himself and Richard Staniforth who also attempted to “take the glory” were over six feet tall and could easily reach past the crux move - much to the annoyance of Steve who could not do it without making a ridiculously hard move. Despite several weeks of contemptuous lip the true claimant to the fourteen inches of newly climbed rock was never decided - but who cares anyway?

Steve Hartland, as a reflection of the times, promptly free climbed all the aid routes, and for entertainment Keith Naylor thrust his person onto the rock to create Lunge or Plunge . The route should really have been named Lunge and Plunge, since it allowed a means of reaching the top using only two footholds and one hand hold. If you think that sounds amazing then ponder over the fact that The Crack was climbed from top to bottom using only one hand jam. You are advised not to attempt this unless you are proficient at mid-air jamming!

The Club supplies various items of equipment for members or visitors wishing to climb on the wall, including ropes, helmets, and various old pairs of rock boots. It is always stressed that climbing is at one’s own risk and that utmost care is required.

The Castle must be one of the few clubs to have its own climbing wall - so why not give it a go?

Please Note…. all routes graded over HVS can only be climbed wearing lurid coloured tights and headband. Please also remember that the use of chalk is forbidden!

Good Luck.